Warfare to Winemaking

Warfare to Winemaker_Menu

By Jess Lander

Winemaking is not for the faint of heart. Every year, you get one shot at turning grapes into great wine, and ultimately, you’re at the mercy of Mother Nature, who may throw any number of devastating curveballs in the form of frost, hail, excessive heat, and fire, to name a few. But if anyone has what it takes to persevere, year after year, it’s Samra Morris, winemaker at Alma Rosa Winery in Santa Barbara’s Sta. Rita Hills.

Samra Morris 2

Morris’ incredible story should serve as inspiration for anyone who’s looking to pursue a career in wine, but for whatever reason, is hesitant to take the next step, whether it’s enrolling in wine education classes or applying for a harvest internship. For from the ages of six to 10, Morris grew up in a war zone in Bosnia. Her dangerous childhood, where she often had to run from snipers on her way to and from school, would be unimaginable for most of her peers.

“I lived in a siege city for four years. Growing up at that young age was pretty tough. You still want to be a kid, but there’s a war happening and you have no clue why,” she recalled. “It was tough trying every day to survive, to stay alive. Finding out that you lost family members was an everyday routine. I grew up without electricity, fresh water, and heat.”

Today, Morris is the only Bosnian winemaker in California and perhaps the U.S. She studied food sciences and completed her master’s degree in Food Quality and Control at The University of Sarajevo. A professor sparked her interest in wine and enology and in 2012 she moved to the United States with her husband, who she met while he was stationed with the air force in her town. His new assignment was at the Travis Air Force Base in Fairfield, CA, a twist of fate that provided her the perfect opportunity to explore the wine industry.

“I was thinking, oh my God, will I ever be able to pursue a career in winemaking? Where am I moving? And he said, ‘We’re moving 30 minutes away from Napa,” said Morris. “I thought, I’m the luckiest Bosnian ever.”

Her first job in the tasting room with Hestan Vineyards in Yountville, CA would ultimately lead her to the central coast, where she would trade Cabernet Sauvignon for Pinot Noir. But first, she would meet the venerable Thomas Rivers Brown, one of Napa Valley’s most sought-after consulting winemakers, and spend three harvests cutting her teeth under his direction.

“I was super excited that I had an opportunity to work with and learn from one of the best winemakers in Napa. I learned so much, not just how to make wine, but also how to clean the cellar, the little details that make me a winemaker today,” she said. “The number one thing he taught me was work ethic, how much hard work and passion you have to put into your winemaking.”

Her big break came when she received a call from Debra Eagle, general manager at Alma Rosa Winery, who was her former boss at Hestan. She happily accepted the role of assistant winemaker in July of 2019, but two months later, she was thrown into the most challenging test of her career when the head winemaker resigned just as harvest was about to kick off. The 2019 Alma Rosa vintage was suddenly in her hands.

Samra Morris 3

“I knew I had a shot to show my talent and passion for the wines and I was at the same time excited and stressed. There were so many nights that I didn’t sleep at all because of all the emotions that were happening at the same time,” she said. “It felt like a dream that came too fast. Harvest was approaching just a few weeks after taking over and I needed to learn everything in a short period.”

But Morris is a survivor and she quickly proved she could thrive under pressure. Now with two vintages under her belt, she’s been able to learn from and lean on another notable consulting winemaker, Tony Biagi, recently named the 2020 Winemaker of the Year by Antonio Galloni’s Vinous.

“Working with Tony is fun with a lot of learning and growing. He’s made me feel more confident in my talent and he is always there for me when I have a hard time making important decisions for the first time,” she said. “We’ve developed a great personal relationship. It is amazing to have someone next to me, with so much experience and passion to learn from.”

Morris’ past is far from forgotten, but it fuels her passion for winemaking and reminds her not to take things—like a late frost or mid-harvest heat spike—too seriously. She laughs at how she used to put Coca-Cola in red wine back home in Bosnia to make it more palatable and seems poised to become a mentor in her own right to future female winemakers.

“I definitely appreciate life better. I’m really enjoying it. Every single moment,” she said. “No matter how hard it can become, I don’t give up. I keep going and keep pushing myself.”

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Jess Lander

Jess Lander is a freelance writer based in Napa Valley, specializing in all things wine, beer, food, and travel. Her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, Decanter, VinePair, the SF Chronicle, and more. Follow her on Instagram at @willwrite4wine.