The Best Riesling that You’re Not Drinking (a Ride Along the Danube)

You might consider yourself a Riesling lover (because, well, why wouldn’t you, right?), but chances are good that you’re not drinking some of the best Riesling available on the planet.
Those would be the dry, austere Rieslings from Austria, where an increase in overall quality has created the most exciting stuff to come from that country since Beethoven’s Eroica Symphony. More specifically, Austria’s dramatic vineyard landscapes along the picturesque Danube River, more famous for producing Grüner Veltliner, are now the source of some of the most intense, focused, and long-lived Rieslings in Europe.
Vineyards along the Danube.
Vineyards along the Danube.

The Austrian wine regions along the Danube have several things going for them, all conspiring to transform Austria’s reputation into an epicenter of powerhouse Riesling wines: 

  • A confluence of cool air from the North
  • Atlantic ocean influences
  • Drier air from the East 
  • Mediterranean climate influence from the South
  • High elevation vineyard sites that help mitigate rising growing season temperatures caused by climate change. 

Because of the widespread use of traditional dry-terraced farming, there’s limited mechanization, a focus on hand-harvesting, and plots are typically farmed by small, family-owned growers. These aspects all help to produce the long ripening curve and gentler farming practices essential for growing world-class Riesling grapes. 

If you’ve found your Riesling appetite whetted, then put on your favorite Beethoven opus, don your sailor’s cap, and let’s cast off for a quick trip along the Danube.

Region: Traisental
Style: Small, but Mighty

This region has only about 800 hectares (1,976 acres) of vines, farmed in 5-10 hectare (12-24 acres) plots on average, with soils more akin to Champagne than to the rest of Austria. Here, there’s a concentration of limestone and chalk from decomposed river deposits, ideal for growing fine white wine grape varieties. Traisental’s slopes also help to pull cooler air into the valleys, which aides in ripening.

Rieslings here show intense citrus flavors on a pithy, austere palate with ample minerality. Stone fruit aromas dominate, and the nose tends to offer very spicy with notes typical of ginger, white and orange florals, and flint. After aging, Traisental Riesling gives hints of candied fruit, toast, and even earthiness.

Producers of note: Ludwig Neumayer, Steyrer, Tom Dockner, Rudolf Hofmann, and Markus Huber.

Map overlooking Kremstal.
Map overlooking Kremstal.

Region: Kremstal
Style: Electric and Ancient

Over 2,300 hectares (5,683 acres) are farmed near the cultural epicenter of the town of Krems, on 400-500 million-year-old bedrock that predates the formation of the Alps. There are rocky soils, but also deep loess terraces, so diversity is a key aspect of farming Riesling here.

Kremstal predates the quality focus of the rest of Austrian wine by decades, but use of dry terracing (which dates from the 11th Century), handpicking, and small average vineyard sizes are now driving a quality renaissance. Riesling markers of the region include a mineral-driven, pure palate expression, with lemon peel aromas, and lemon, quince, and apricot flavors. The acidity levels are electric, with a toasty finish developing after bottle aging. 

Producers of note: Buchegger, Stadt Krems, Nigl, Franz Proidl, and Winzer Krems.

Vineyard near Domane Wachau
Vineyard near Domane Wachau.

Region: Wachau
Style: Deep and Complex

The Wachau is probably Austria’s most famous region, particularly for Grüner Veltliner of all quality levels. It also happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site with 1,344 hectares (3,321 acres) of vines, much of it planted on postcard-worthy terraced, hillside vineyards along the Danube itself.

The best Wachau Rieslings are a study in complexity and depth. They tend to be textural and offer a richer, more generous mouthfeel than their other Austrian counterparts, all balanced by fine acidity. You’ll find a pithy palate with a long finish, ample smoke and flint notes, and flavors of apples and apricots. 

Producers of note: FJ Gritsch, Eder, Prager, Domane Wachau, Johann Donabaum, and Hirtzberger.

Region: Kamptal
Style: Steely and Austere

This is one of Austria’s most successful wine areas, farming about 4,000 hectares (9,884 acres) of varied soils including loess, rocky, and volcanic, and is home to the futuristic visitors’ center at the Loisium wine experience

The region is characterized by overlapping influence of three rivers: the Kamp, Traisen, and Danube. The latter has had a dramatic impact on the terroir, as the hilltops are richer in sedimentary soils from when the Danube was 200 meters (656 feet) higher than today.

Kamptal Riesling’s hallmark traits offer up aromas of lemons, limes, and white flowers (with flint and petrol notes developing after aging). Fresh-cut citrus, stone fruits, and green apple are also common. The palate evokes Austrian architecture itself: almost imposing in its steely austerity.

Producers of note: Bradl, Schloss Gobelsburg, Hirsch, Baumgartner, Leindl, Bründlmayer, and Fred Loimer.

Region: Wagram
Style: Friendly and Refreshing

The name Wagram comes from Wogenrain, meaning “shore,” from the marine deposits, loess, and river gravel left here after the Ice Age. Wagram is home to one of the oldest wineries in Austria (Stift Klosterneuburg, founded in 1114 by Margrave Leopold III, where grapes are pressed in a deconsecrated convent). Despite the history, Wagram is a new regional term, in use only since 2007 (previously it was known as Donauland).

Wagram Riesling is approachable and minerally, with the focus on flavors of pears and lemons, and overall palate refreshment being a key component. 

Producers of note: Stift Klosterneuburg, Josef Ehmoser, and Diwald for a good introduction to the Wagram style.

 

Additional Images by Joe Roberts:

View of Dürnstein from the Danube

Vineyards near the town of Spitz
Vineyards near the town of Spitz
Winzer Krems tasting room
Winzer Krems tasting room

 

Historic oak vat in Domane Wachau
Historic oak vat in Domane Wachau

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