How Big is Burgundy? That Depends on Who You Ask

How big is Burgindy?

How Big is Burgundy? That Depends on Who You Ask

Some winemakers certainly didn’t like the tentative answer given by France’s national appellation body recently. Talks are ongoing about how to re-define the region’s boundaries.

Story by  Chris Mercer

Grand plans to re-jig the Burgundy wine map have returned to the drawing board after one suggestion brought hundreds of angry winemakers into the streets.

The debate over Burgundy’s wine boundary has frequently caused tension.

The latest drama came when France’s national appellation body, the INAO, recently proposed removing 64 northern communes from the regional ‘Bourgogne AOC’, including those in Chablis.

French media headlines screamed about Chablis no longer being part of Burgundy.

Some local wine unions called the proposals a “denial of history.” They said the move was particularly unfair given that 43 communes in the Beaujolais area further south would be allowed to retain access to the Bourgogne appellation.

The INAO backed down last month amid winemaker protests.

 

How did we get here?

Wine politics are nothing new in this region. 

Philip the Bold banished the Gamay grape from his Duchy of Burgundy in 1395, for example, favoring Pinot Noir in the now-famous Côte d’Or vineyards.

Today’s Bourgogne AOC still only permits Pinot Noir for red wine, as well as Chardonnay for whites, although the regional Côteaux Bourguignons label allows more leeway.

“The boundaries of political Burgundy have varied massively over the centuries,” said David Way, wine qualifications developer for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET). 

“At one level, Chablis is a part of vinous Burgundy because that is where INAO decided to draw the line back in 1937 for Bourgogne AOC, following a court judgment in Dijon in 1930.”

Despite its 1,924 acres of premier cru vineyards, however, Chablis cuts a relatively isolated figure on the Burgundy map.

In another life, it was part of a larger wine region that supplied Paris, “before phylloxera and the building of the railway to the Midi took away that advantage,” said Way.  

But he said that, in some ways, it was more surprising to include Beaujolais in the Bourgogne wine region than Chablis vineyards. 

“Chablis does at least share a grape variety and a version of chalk soils with the Côte d’Or.”

Some people blame today’s arguments on yesterday’s bureaucrats for not finishing the job.

“Unlike other winegrowing regions, such as Bordeaux or Champagne, the delimitation work begun in 1937 was never completed for Bourgogne,” said the wine union for Burgundy appellations, the Syndicat des Bourgognes, and winemaker union CAVB.

“Although the historical heart of the Bourgogne region has been fully defined, this process has never been applied to those Bourgogne appellations located in the Beaujolais and Chablis.” 

The INAO had intended for its plans to fill in the gaps. 

 

Why does it matter?

For wineries, it’s a question of both heritage and finances.

Not everybody in the communes affected by the INAO’s recent plans is keen to plaster ‘Bourgogne AOC’ in large font on bottle labels. Chablis producers, especially, have a calling card of their own. 

But Guillaume Willette, of the Syndicat des Bourgognes, said many wineries in the 64 northern communes were concerned about losing access to the Bourgogne AOC name.

“Between 100 and 200 producers would have been directly affected by the loss of production, and more than 600 by the loss of potential [production],” he said. More wineries than this would have suffered “economic consequences,” he said.

Discussions have been parked, but expect them to start up again.

SHARE

IN-PERSON COURSE & WORKSHOP REFUNDS & TRANSFERS

Cancellations of confirmed in-person course enrollments and workshops are accepted up to 60 days before the start of the course. An administration fee of $50 plus the full cost of the study materials and exam fees will be deducted, and the remainder of the course fee refunded to the payee. Separate WSET exam cancellation/transfer rules apply.
Transfers of a confirmed enrollment to another course are accepted 60 days before the course start date with an administration fee of $50.

Cancellations less than 60 days before the in-person course start date or course no shows forfeit any refund/transfer options unless students can provide medical documentation. If medical documentation is provided, students can be transferred to a later course. No refunds will be applied.

Course Transfers cannot be carried forward to the next academic year (which commenced on January 1).

Students are highly encouraged to purchase separate travel insurance.

You've got this!

Flamingo Hotel Las Vegas

Your WSET Level 3 exam will take place on

February 12, 2023 at 10:00 AM (Pacific)

at

3555 Las Vegas Blvd

Las Vegas, NV 89109

 

You've got this!

Mariott Santa Ynez

Your WSET Level 3 exam will take place on

April 23, 2023 at 10:00 AM (Pacific)

at

555 McMurray Road

Buelton, CA 93427

 

You've got this!

Art Hotel Denver

Your WSET Level 3 exam will take place on

March 5, 2023 at 10:00 AM (Mountain)

at

1201 Broadway

Denver, CO 80203

 

You've got this!

Your WSET Level 3 exam will take place on

February 12, 2023 at 10:00 AM (Central)

at 

1719 West End Ave.

Nashville, TN 37203

 

You've got this!

Epicurean Hotel

Your WSET Level 3 exam will take place on

March 19, 2023 at 10:00 AM (Eastern)

at

1207 S Howard Ave,

Tampa, FL 33606

 

You've got this!

Street View of HQ

Your WSET Level 3 exam will take place on

January 22, 2023 at 10:00 AM (Pacific)

at

2501 Oak Street

Napa, CA 94559

 

Search

[]